France’s crémants are sparkling wines made in the same way as champagne, but not in the Champagne region. So they don’t command the same premium price, yet they offer terrific value. That’s especially so with Crémant de Bourgogne, because Burgundy uses the same main grapes (pinot noir and chardonnay) as Champagne. Tripoz is one of my favorite producers; I love its sparkling and still wines. The wines are certified biodynamic, and an earth-friendly viticulture is reflected in the edgy energy the wine conveys on the palate. Alcohol by volume: 13 percent.